T Bucket Rear Suspension Buildup
“This picture shows the spring hangers for the T Bucket rear suspension held in place with a piece of ¾ inch all thread holding them the correct distance apart (figured on the bench with the main leaf, spring shackle, and the spring pivots, all bolted together and in a straight line. Measure from the mounting flange of the spring pivot to the spring pivot on the other side. I use ¾ inch all thread because I make the spring pivot bolts from ¾ inch grade 8 bolts. If I only used 5/8th inch bolts for the spring pivots, then I would use 5/8 in all thread) I then level the brackets with a magnetic level and support the whole apparatus with a small bottle jack. Then I center the apparatus on the housing, mock the spring in place to make sure the center section of the rear end will clear and then tack the brackets in place. I never fully weld anything because I may want or have to change something later. A tack is easier to cut and remove than a fully welded bracket.”
“This is just a side view to help show the set up. Notice the vertical strap that I placed on the frame to the rear end to keep it at the correct height and position.”
“This picture shows the T Bucket rear suspension with everything in place with the spring mounting cross member in place and the spring mounted to the rear end.”
“For this particular T Bucker rear suspension, I decided to use traditional stock rear wishbones and keep the trick end that bolts to the rear-end altogether. I made a bracket to mount the rear of the wishbone to the axle from 3/8th inch plate, a front mounting plate to the frame from 1/2 inch plate, the rod end bushing from 1 ¼ round stock with 5/8ths 18 threads for the rod bushing which I also made. This is shown in my StreetRod 101: Hot Rod Frame & Chassis Construction DVD. I lined up and supported the assembly with stands made from 1 inch square tubing welded to 2x2x 1/8th inch angle. Then I used ¾ inch all thread with a nut for height adjustment and the all thread has a piece of 1/8th in 2 x 2 angle welded to it. I have several of these in the shop and use them for all kinds of set ups from what is shown here to setting up my exhaust system. There is another bracket not shown than is on the other side of the rear bracket and at approximately a 90-degree angle so that the rear force on the wishbone is spilt in two directions along the axle housing.”
“Notice the c-clamp holding the rear of the wishbone in place.”
“Here is a close up of the front wishbone bracket, urethane rod end and the homemade bung that goes into the wishbone and holds the rod end.”
“And a final shot showing everything tacked in place on the 1927 T Bucket rear suspension.”
That’s all for our T Bucket rear suspension nstallment. It truly is fascinating to actually watch Bob build a frame like this and his 4-1/2 hour StreetRod 101: Hot Rod Frame & Chassis Construction DVD covers it in great detail. Hopefully, you’ve already been inspired to collect the entire comprehensive StreetRod 101 DVD Library we have available at our sister site, StreetRodPlans.com and have already begun benefiting from Bob’s world of helpful advice. But, if you haven’t we highly recommend you click on the DVD boxes image below and check them all out.
We’ve been updating this 1927 T Bucket project series pretty steadily, so we encourage you to check back often to learn the latest.
To be sure you don’t miss the next installment in this series, Subscribe to TBucketPlans.com RSS Feed
- Y-Block Ford T-Bucket: Ted Kramer’s Snoopy Inspires Me - February 11, 2023
- Terry Brown T-Bucket Sets the Fad-T Standard - February 10, 2023
- T-Bucket 100th Birthday! - January 1, 2023
- 10000Welcome to the fifth installment in our series documenting how Bob Hamilton, the star of the informative StreetRod 101 DVD Library, builds a 1927 T roadster using only a modest budget and loads of experience. You'll recall from the previous four installments that Bob started with a fiberglass body that…