Through our sister site, StreetRodPlans.com, we are very proud to introduce the third DVD set in the successful StreetRod 101 series featuring Bob Hamilton: Fiberglass Body Work & Paint, Plus Chassis Prep with Bonus Metal Pickup Bed Fabrication.
This new 4-hour instructional DVD shows you how to eliminate the imperfections found in most fiberglass bodies. As everyone knows, it’s preparation that’s the key element in a great paint finish and that’s what Bob shows you how to do in this informative DVD.
This isn’t a video about how to set up a spray gun, run a compressor or mix paint. It’s about all the mission critical elements you want to take care of before it gets to that point. Plus, if you follow what Bob shows you how to do in this 2-DVD set you’ll be able to save a fortune when it comes time to lay down your paint finish.
As the name indicates, this new DVD also covers a wide range of important chassis prep things you’ll want to do from dressing welds to brake line pressure testing. And to top it all off, Bob has included an in-depth bonus feature that shows you how to fabricate a sheet metal pickup bed that not only looks terrific but is incredibly functional and designed for rugged use for many years to come.
Take a look at this extensive list of just what you’ll learn from this valuable DVD set and then check out how you can get your very own and save big, too.
- How to ensure fiberglass body left-behind mold release doesn’t mess up your paint finish
- How to prepare the body’s gelcoat so that it will work right with filler and paint
- How to use the cheapest flat black spray paint you can find to make sure your body panels are perfect
- The best sandpaper grades to use at different points in your body work
- Minimizing scratch marks and maximizing adhesion
- How you can have an “intelligent hand” to spot body imperfections
- Learn the right way to block sand to take out imperfections
- Identify high and low spots like an expert
- How to keep from adding too much body filler, when it’s not really needed
- Choosing the right sanding block for the job — and what not to use
- Airboard tricks
- Keeping body panel edges straight
- Using everyday items you find in the garage and home as special sanding aids
- How to avoid body waves in black and other dark color paint finishes
- Best grits of sandpaper to use for fiberglass versus metal
- Learn proper sureform/cheese grater techniques to save time and effort
- The importance of cleaning at each bodywork stage and how to do it correctly
- Personal protection tools and techniques — don’t inadvertently do yourself harm
- When and how to use high-fill primer
- Properly applying Bondo/body filler skin coats
- The right way to mix catalyst with body filler
- Easy ways to keep your body filler tools clean and reusable
- The importance of “visual deception” and how to use it to make things look great
- How to tell when body filler is “ready” to work to save unnecessary time and effort
- “Unplugging” your sanding tools to avoid using too much material
- When to use either a long or short sanding block or tool
- How to be aware of areas like windshield posts where you might encounter fit or interference problems as a result of paint finish build-up and how to prepare for that so that you don’t mess up the finish having to rework it
- Where to hand sand, rather than use a block
- How to hide headlight, taillight and other wiring in the frame rails
- How to use a readily available, cheap “snake” tool with the wiring
- Preparing frame rails and welds for paint with minimal body filler
- Using tinted primer and etching primer
- Use of glazing or spot putty and importance of priming and blocking to make invisible
- Why basecoat/clearcoat may be worth the price in terms of work required and finish quality
- Why you probably don’t want to use power sanding tools on the frame
- The wonders of PSA (pressure sensitive adhesive) sandpaper and its many innovative uses
- Practical cutting and buffing of frame paint finish
- A handy fixture you can build to better enable working with front and rear axles for finish preparation
- An innovative brake T-block mounting on rear axle for better appearance
- Easiest ways to clean up bracket welds on frame and suspension and proper tool choices
- Proper filing technique
- Spot-priming techniques to get in the hard-to-reach places, while saving primer
- Filling the “dimples” and seam on Ford 9″ rear end for better appearance
- Where you may want to finish grind a bracket before welding
- Understanding open-coat and closed-coat sandpaper
- Modifying body filler spreaders to apply filler to fillets
- Proper body filler mixing and what to avoid
- Finger-spreading body filler
- The right time to sand filler to avoid unnecessary extra work and time
- The right way to mask bolts so you don’t spend forever getting the tape off
- How to get clevises to fit properly after painting batwings and keep them from marring paint
- Make a simple “spring tree” to enable easy painting of spring leafs
- Masking tricks and tips for spindles and other suspension components
- Engine and transmission painting — how to keep your engine from being a “dust magnet” when you paint and how to properly mask
- Routing and pressure testing brake lines; choosing steel, chrome or stainless
- Chassis assembly tasks
- Mounting brake line through-frame fittings
- Preparation of painted brake and hard fuel lines
- Clever home-built polishing fixture to get a chrome-like finish on stainless steel tubing clamps
- Miscellaneous wiring tips
- Using guide pins to mount body on frame
- BONUS: How to Build a Metal Pickup Bed
- How to cut sheet metal in a clean, straight line without the use of a metal shear
- Proper bead rolling techniques, for strength and beauty
- Forming pickup bed side panels, top rails and bottom support/attachment
- Where and why you don’t want to use a tape measure
- How to use a shrinker-stretcher tool to produce curved corners
- Stake pocket construction and braces to maintain a stable pickup bed
- Sheet metal welding tips
- Attaching tailgate, hinges and fabricating latch
- Fabricating removable side and rear pickup bed aprons/valence
- Frenched license plate/hidden receiver hitch
You get all of this promptly delivered to your mailbox on a high quality, four hour 2-DVD set that you will use regularly and treasure for a lifetime for only $24.95, plus only $4 shipping and handling (anywhere in the world).
Here’s an even better offer. You can get this new DVD set along with one of the other two great StreetRod 101 DVD sets, Frame & Chassis Construction or Fiberglass Body Modifications for only $44.95, plus just $5 shipping. That’s a $7.95 savings over the individual order plus shipping price.
[hilight color=”FFFF00″]Or, for the best deal get all 3 DVD sets for just $63.95, plus $6 shipping. That’s a big $16.90 savings over the individual order and shipping costs![/hilight]
Just pick the deal you want to take advantage of below and click on the appropriate “Sign Up” button below for your choice to securely purchase through PayPal and your DVDs will be promptly on their way to you.
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However, if all you wish to order now is the new StreetRod 101 Fiberglass Body Work and Paint DVD set, just click on the Buy Now button below.
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While we prefer PayPal, you may also mail your check in payment. Send your check for proper amount payable to Street Rod 101 Inc. to the following address:
Street Rod 101 Inc.
8412 N. Diamond Valley Dr.
St. George, UT 84770
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